Did you know that it takes 500 operations to produce one tailor-made suit? With a size tolerance of only 1%. A lot of these operations are done manually. The Makers produce about 1,200 suits a day, which means we perform 600,000 operations on a daily basis. This probably gives you an idea of how complex and labor-intensive the process of making a suit it. Nevertheless, it is a challenge that we gladly take on. Especially with our state-of-the-art Zünd cutter, a Swiss high-tech machine we brought into use in 2019.
It sounds easy, for ten costumes in the size, you put ten layers of fabric on top of each other and cut the patterns all at once. But, when you want a checkered fabric for your suits, it is key that all the pattern elements are aligned. Including the front, the collar, the back and the chest pocket. To be able to do that we need an extra margin of fabric (50% of the check size) and cut it more generously (gross) the first time. Then each cut-out pattern piece is individually aligned to the pattern piece it should match. After that the fabric is cut out again (net). This is the traditional method.
Nowadays the cutting of fabric is often done by a cutting robot. Also, it’s possible to adjust the checkered fabric directly to the pattern. When you know the size of the checks, you can make sure that the pattern pieces fit together right away. Theoretically, you could immediately cut the net pattern size. But fabric is living material: it moves, it stretches, it shrinks. So, check lines are never perfectly straight. If you cut out a pattern net, it is possible that the checkered pattern pieces still do not align. But it’s not possible to restore it, because there’s no gross margin left.
Although the Zünd cutter is digitally controlled, it simulates human techniques in the process very well. The fabric enters the machine, which takes a photo and scans the fabric. Then it ‘reads’ the checkered fabric. By defining target points, the Zünd cutter knows how to adjust the pattern in order to align the checks and connect the pattern pieces. This decreases the margin of errors significantly, any remaining small deviations are being fixed during stitching, by our experienced employees.
Our investment in the Zünd cutter offers many advantages.
Since we started using the Zünd cutter in our tailoring process, we have drastically decreased our material usage and waste. Good for the planet! Not only do we waste less fabric, but also:
Would you like to know more about our process or do you have other questions? Feel free to contact us. We are happy to help you.